Runway Ready: Trends from Lakme Fashion Week ’16

DAY 1 1. INIFD Presents Gen Next 2016

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Season after season, year after year, the Gen Next program gives several young and upcoming designers a platform to launch themselves in the competitive field of fashion. Talented and favourite designers like Masaba Gupta and Kunal Rawal come from this launch pad. Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 kick-started with the 22nd edition of the INIFD Gen Next show featuring six young and fresh talents and collections from across the country namely – ‘Hybrid’, by Vaibhav Singh; ‘Bunai’ by Paridhi Jaipuria, ‘Starry Night Over The Rhode’ by Anupreet Sindhu, ‘Warefare X Streetwear’ by Nought One, ‘The missing Piece’ by Dming and ‘Morpheus’ by Khanjio. With immense innovation and oozing energy, the Gen-Next 2016 collection is definitely worth looking forward to. 2. [Ka] [Sha] | Antar-Agni | Myoho

Inspired by aerial views of the landscape, Karishma Shahani Khan’s label ‘Ka-Sha’ unveiled and dazzled the ramp leaving the crowd awestruck with her ‘Navya’ collection. With emphasis on multi-layered garments and tasselled scarves, the show ended with the designer walking the ramp herself with her baby accompanied by two other mothers! Sweet, isn’t it? Simplicity with an urban and innovative twist was the standout factor of Ujjawal Dubey’s ‘Antar-Agni’ label that has unveiled a new take on men and women’s fashion. It was all about the romance, nostalgia and a throwback to a journey in the 1920s! ‘Myoho’ by Kiran and Meghna showcased their ‘Sandalwood’ a collection that left its fashionable fragrance on the ramp. 3. ‘Madness’ by Quirkbox: Unforgettable fashion thrill! Known for its experiments with fashion art, prints and fashion, Quirkbox showcased its collection ‘Madness’ that was an amalgamation of Motion Imagery, Fashion and Image Mapping Fashion, shown in India. 4. The Detail Story by Manish Malhotra

There’s probably nothing that social media fails to cover when it’s a Manish Malhotra show, right? His Winter/Festive 2016 collection was ruled by resham threadwork, clustered sequins and intricate hand embroidery on dramatic trails and off-shoulder capes, alongside floral motifs. The all new range of traditional wears, jacket-saris; lehengas paired with crop blouses and draped dupattas on contemporary Anarkali transported the audience to a sartorial haven. The collection also featured long tunics with cigarette pants and majestic flowing backless gowns! To end the show, we had the adorable Shraddha Kapoor and the dapper dude Sushant Singh Rajput closing the show for him. DAY 2 1.  Weaves if Arunachal Pradesh by Yana Ngoba Installation by Nazia Hafeez:It was an extremely proud moment for the northeast as ‘Weaves of Arunachal Pradesh’ by ace designer Yana Ngoba took the center-stage at the Lakmé Fashion Week. Owing to the rich textiles from Northeast India and the art of locally spun thread and natural colouring, the collection exhibits the very concept of from farm-to-fashion with sheer brilliance! Installation by Nazia Hafeez in association with Lakmé Fashion week also showcased at the venue. 2. #MadeInAssam: Naturally Anuradha | Pariah by Pranami | Aagor by Ants Craft Bright yellow hues all around. The show put up by Naturally Anuradha was an insight into the Assamese culture with Xattriya dancers performing ‘Bhortaal’ on the ramp. Every ensemble that appeared on the ramp defined art. Each piece is worked on by Assamese tribal women for days together. Empowering these women, giving them the independence and representing sustainability formed the crux of Halodi! Pranami Kalita for Pariah by Pranami made her debut at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’16. The designer worked wonders with muga, eri and paat indigenous and home-grown silks that are renowned in Assam and blended them with fabrics from other parts of India. Now that’s all sorts of innovative, isn’t it? Also, don’t miss out on the gorgeous Gaylyn who walked the ramp for Pranami. With an aim to empower women, Aagor by ANTS Crafts presented the fabulous textiles; the yards of fabrics those turned into garments and were stunning on the ramp. The relaxed shirt dress was worn with a long-sleeved shrug while striped skirts and blouse were cool add-ons. Making a show-stopping entry was Bollywood star Sarah-Jane Dias in a multi-coloured skirt with a black blouse that gave the show the necessary spark. 3. “The sari in us” by Anavila

Recognised for her beautiful hand-woven linen saris, which have now turned into the principal choice of the fashion trend-setters, Anavila Misra made an interesting presentation at the Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016. The theme titled ‘The sari in us’ rekindled the beauty and the tradition of the sari, which has for long been relegated to the festive and bridal wear segment for women of all shapes and sizes. With sheer emphasis on sari, Anavila with her collection proved how essential saris are in the Indian heritage! 4. Sanjay Garg: “Raw Mango” a collection by Sanjay Garg was the perfect end to the Sustainable fashion and Indian Textile Day at LFW Winter/Festive 2016. Known for his woven Varanasi silks and Chanderis deets, Garg showcased his latest collection in these textiles for the festive season. A riot of colours was witnessed on the ramp for the saris and various ensembles, which glittered with motifs and weaves that left the fashion lovers in the audience spell-bound. DAY 3 1. Kanika Goyal | Doodlage | Rara Avis by Sonal Verma:

Colours and tech fabrics; these have always been the essentials in Kanika Goyal’s collection. Owing to her statement, this season was also about various permutations and combinations. Inspired by the architectural style of Frank Gehry, the collection featured deconstructed minimalism. From colours to detailing to texture, all in all, her collection was edge and surely did lead to an eye-catching impact! Young at heart and almost childlike, the playful collection that Kriti Tula showcased under her label ‘Doodlage’ at LFW Winter/Festive 2016 was definitely not unnoticed. Termed as ‘Hopscotch’ she used imperfect elements for her garments to stand out and added her favourite patchwork and detailing to surprise the dresser with a quirky extra pocket. ‘The Dark Matter’ by Sonal Verma included styles that were classic but edgy as layers and collar detailing vied for attention. Long jackets and overcoats, column dresses, woven leather sweatshirts and knits as separates gave the collection a versatile feel. Colours moved from warm deep hues like slate grey and black to midnight blues and greens. Everything seen on the ramp was created just to match the mood and we must agree how beautiful it was all together! 2. Aarti Vijay Gupta | Divya Sheth | Vrisa

Termed as the ‘Winter Garden’, Aarti Vijay Gupta featured a sartorial collection about vintage florals and garden prints against organic fabrics. From neat silhouettes to colour play, her collection was an ode to the passage of seasons. A touch if mythology and all things vibrant, every muse of Divya Sheth depicted the different moods, postures and attires of Lord Krishna. Termed as ‘Nijmandir’, the colourful collection was crafted emphasising on shades of neel (blue), syahi (grey black) and gulaabi (lotus pink), with hints of gold. A throwback to the Mughal Era, ‘Char Chinar’ from Vrisa by Rahul and Shikha featured a collection with intricate Kashmiri hand embroidery on beautiful Persian and Ikat fabrics. Staying true to their idea of revisiting and reviving ancient arts, crafts and traditions, the collection redefined ethnic opulence. The collection comprised of grand scalloped jackets over colourful lehenga skirts. 3. Introducing: Whimsical | Eshaa Amiin | Zoraya Feminine and oh-so-pretty, the Whimsical collection focused on floral prints and blazers paired with neat pleated skirts on organic fabrics. The colour palatte was unusual and comprised of a mix of metallic and subdued pastels. All things black and gorgeous! Esha Amiin’s collection was inspired by dark elements if secrecy, fantasy and mysticism. Billowing silhouettes and an all-black palette served as ingredients to a grand runway collection. Fuss-free and just the perfect festive wear collection, Zoraya’s style was easy with fish-scale midis and angarakhas. To be worn over voluminous pants, these pieces are for the free-spirited and focusing on sustainable fashion.  4. Payal Singhal

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Payal Singhal showcased a collection of dreamy, romantic bridal wear in pastel hues as well in black and white. Fitted kurtas with shoulder cut-outs, dhoti pants, crushed and full lehengas with sleek and flattering blouses - all featuring her signature embroidery. The debut actress and showstopper Saiyami Kher was seen wearing rose pink off-shoulder choli and lehenga edged with scalloped hemlines and beautiful zardozi embroidery dazzled the ramp. 5. Chola | Chirag Nainani: This season at LFW Winter/Festive 2016, Chola played it cool with an androgynous collection. Oversized shirts and overcoats were teamed with fluid cowls and baggy palazzos. The collection in all was a game for fuss-free additions. Chirag Nainani, the ace designer’s collection followed a distressed colour palette theme. The militarised shades were muffled with tan accessories. The trend that you should be stealing from this show is definitely the high-waisted belt worn with saris, jackets and Indianised gowns. 6. Huemn Project: Minimalistic, free-flowing silhouettes and unusual; the Huemn Project displayed a collection that’s one of its kind taking over social media. Check detailings to cuts, a piece a two from this collection needs to find space in your wardrobe. 7. Gaurang: In his signature style, Gaurang had a vibrant collection of traditional Indian wear that showcased many stunning weaves and textiles of India, including Benarasis and bandhini. From vivid colour palette and the knife-pleat lehengas to metallic accents, the collection lent an imperial essence to the collection. With Mugda Godse closing the show, everything was perfect, down to the tee! 8. Rishta by Arjun Saluja: Deconstruction played a major role in the designer’s collection called ‘Dissonance’. Taking the audience on a roller coaster journey, Arjun took classic silhouettes like the sherwani, sharara and aligarh pants, broke them down into contemporary fluid drapes and turned them into occasion wear. Innovation taken to next level! 9. The Maze by Rimzim Dadu ‘The Maze’ by Rimzim explored the symbiotic relationship between fashion, textiles, performing art and installation design to create a unique interactive experience. The clothes played with his signature metal wire and leather cord hand-weaving techniques.The polished brogues also added to the look, making it seem wonderfully whimsical. 10. Rajesh Pratap Singh: Known for his minimalistic styling and intense construction, the designer revealed an interesting and innovative look for the coming festive season. Turning to his Indian roots for inspiration, Rajesh called his collection ‘The Punjabi Suit’ and gave it the high tech futuristic treatment.   DAY 4 1. Ajay Kumar: Ajay Kumar’s collection was a refreshing take on fashion in general. The signature quirky prints were given a Benarasi twist and what’s not to love about an interesting take on fashion aesthetic? The playful collection once again saw blazers layered on kurtas and sleek trousers. 2. Shivan and Narresh: The designer duo has taken the couture to another level by adding beachwear ensembles.  This collection at LFW winter/festive 2016 included unconventional, bizarre and will sweep you right off your feet. Vibrant hues and an edgy take on swimwear fashion, saris and dresses summarised their collection. 3. Payal Khandwala: With the king of the jungle as its integral motif, designer Payal Khandwala’s collection ‘The New Emperor’ was designed for the boss woman. Keeping both luxury and comfort in mind; fuss-free silhouettes were paired with rich jewel tones accentuated by exquisite hand embroidery. 4. Shantanu and Nikhil: Based on two distinct stories, the designers showcased their menswear and womenswear separately. The women-only line ‘Matador’s Mistress’ focused on fierce romance. Bold, structured gowns in intense colours dominated the collection. Spanish-inspired ruffles, velvet and lace detailing added to the drama, accurately capturing the essence of the theme. Malaika Arora Khan summed up the collection in an all-black tasselled number. The men-only line ‘Mutiny 1919’ featured turban-clad models in sharply tailored separates. Riteish Deshmukh was the showstopper for the collection. 5. Ashish Soni: He proved it yet again that black and white never go out of style with his collection ‘Volomatic’, which drew inspiration from the three most fashionable decades - the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s. The collection had boxy silhouettes and classic pantsuits. Curve-accentuating pieces with detailed embroidery accompanied in the glamorous ’90s. The actress with a super bod and chirpy nature - Jacqueline in an embellished black dress closed the show. 6. Aaylixir: This collection comprised of sleek silhouettes with colour-blocked separates. The sequin work, deep necks and hints of metallic gave the otherwise fuss-free looks city-girl sophistication. 7. Siddharth Bansal: His colourful collection wove a story of its own through its vintage Indian prints and motifs inspired by folk tales. The trendy silhouettes including matching skirt sets and off-shoulder maxis stole the show! DAY 5 1.     Ridhi Mehra | Swati VijayVargie | VineetRahul:

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Deep hues and unusual cuts, the designer’s collection was infused with indo-western vibes, pairing ghararas with short tops and gowns with gold embroidery. Although the design was the hero of this collection, these pieces draw great inspiration for the upcoming festive season. Inspired by the Pichwai paintings of Nathdwara in Rajasthan, a unique compilation of patchwork and applique with antique marodi embroidery was tied over gorgeous shibori prints. The collection was also a host of great colours like beige, onion pink, vermillion, tangerine, crimson and mint. Handwoven raw silks and luminous chanderi bases were transformed into uber chic and fluid silhouettes like kimono jackets, overcoats, blazers in this designer duo’s collection titled ‘Lakshmi’. Vineet and Rahul worked on gleaming separates focusing on embroidery with delicate threads and zardozi. 2.. Anushree Reddy | Sva by Sonam and Paras Modi

Inspired by ‘The wedding chronicle’, this collection is for the new age girl that redefines and embraces minimalist glamour with a classic twist. Anushree’s signature colour play with hues of tangerine, fiery red, rani pink and yellow with detail to the placement of motifs was the highlighted factor. Also, if you haven’t already seen the stunning show stopper – Shilpa Shetty sizzle the ramp yet, you shouldn’t be waiting for even the next second. A beautiful array of colours and fabrication inspired the collection by Sonam and Paras Modi. You could also see hints of inherited art in the garments which added on to the regal factor. The actress with dimples to die for - Prachi Desai was seen in an off-shoulder blouse with the attached cape and a royal lehenga. 3. Tulsi Silk: Called ‘Woven Tales of Kanchipuram’, the collection by Tulsi Silks showcased stunning versions of the six-yard Kanchivaram weaves in different colours and patterns. The range was further broken down into mini-collections like ‘The gold animal’, ‘The revival’ and ‘The gold bridal’ among others. The show closed by Dia Mirza was seen in an all-black saree with hints if pink and silver. 4. Kunal Rawal:

The menswear designer’s collection, titled ‘Role play’, transitioned from bold shades of wine to neutrals like ivory, charcoal and olive. The ramp was all about dapper looks including sherwanis, pathani kurta and staples like bundis and jackets. 5. Sabyasachi:

Got to admit why the grand finale is called the grand finale after all! Sabyasachi cast his spell once again with a beautifully crafted collection with fur and exquisite handwork embroidery on shift dresses, velvet slip dresses and kaftans and lehengas. The LFW winter/festival 2016 was concluded by the Begum of Bollywood and mommy-to-be Kareena Kapoor Khan who was seen in an embellished kurta accompanied with a lehenga and maang-tikka.

Until next time! For us, fashion week lasts all year round.